New: our own Hairmetry line. Every ingredient explained

Guides

DAMAGE

Hair damage and repair

The short answer

Hair is dead protein, so damage cannot heal. It can only be reduced, smoothed or cut off. Bleach damage is permanent chemistry, heat on wet hair is a common cause, and bond builders (repair products) help in the lab but do not undo it.

See how it works

A hair has up to three layers. The cuticle is the thin protective shell (about 10% of the weight). The cortex gives strength (86 to 90%). A medulla core is present in some hairs only. Plowman 2018 ↗ Wagner 2007 ↗
Six common moments of damage. Three happen while hair is wet, when it is weakest. Most numbers come from lab tests on cut hair, and the sun and pillow effects are less well measured. Wortmann 2022 ↗ Robbins 2007 ↗ Christian 2011 ↗ Humphry 2022 ↗ Bloch ↗
Two microscope-style illustrations side by side. Left: a hair strand whose cuticle scales lie flat and smooth. Right: a damaged strand with chipped, lifted scales and a frayed split end.
Illustration in the style of an electron microscope picture (AI-generated, not a real micrograph). Left, healthy cuticle. Right, worn cuticle and a split end. Bleaching breaks cuticle into small pieces, and splits can start inside the fibre. Kizawa 2005 ↗ Taylor 2024 ↗

Do this

  1. 1Lighten less: fewer sessions, weaker developer (bleach strength), no overlap on bleached lengths.
  2. 2Dry hair before using irons or tongs; never heat wet hair.
  3. 3Use the lowest heat that works, with fewer passes.
  4. 4Condition every wash and detangle wet, working from the ends upward.
  5. 5If you bleach, add a bond-building treatment as a helper, not a fix.
  6. 6Trim split ends; no product mends them, and splits can travel up.

The numbers behind it

  • +47.6%

    Higher strength of bleached fibres after one bond-builder treatment. Another brand gave 19.5%, not significant (3 hair bundles per group, lab).

  • Up to 40%

    Drop in fibre stiffness after each bleaching treatment. Surface roughness change rose by up to 65% with repeat bleaching (lab).

  • Up to 85%

    More damage from 'ammonia-free' colours using MEA (an ammonia substitute) than from ammonia ones (Procter & Gamble lab study).

  • 56-124%

    More cycles to break for chemically treated hair after a citric acid treatment (L'Oreal lab study on cut hair).

For your hair

  • Bleached or relaxed hair

    Weakest when wet. Condition before handling and use the least heat.

  • Curly and coily hair

    Bleach weakens every hair type. Curls also snag easily, so condition well and detangle wet.

Myths to ignore

  • Myth Bond builders re-link the broken bonds in your hair.

    Truth An independent test found no extra disulfide (sulfur-to-sulfur) bonds and no direct sign of the claimed reaction. The hair surface did look more regular.

    Di 2021 ↗
  • Myth Oils and masks repair split ends.

    Truth In bleached or weak hair, splits start inside the fibre and can run far up it (small lab test). Products may hide them; only cutting removes them.

    Taylor 2024 ↗
  • Myth Ammonia-free colour is gentle.

    Truth In one lab study, colours with MEA instead of ammonia caused up to 85% more damage at the highest MEA levels.

    Bailey 2014 ↗
  • Myth Protein treatments rebuild hair.

    Truth Hydrolysed keratin (broken-down wool protein) coats hair and partly enters it. Treated hair kept its strength after UV while untreated lost 14.32%. That is UV protection, not rebuilding.

    Fan 2025 ↗

Made for this

Go deeper

All studies in this guide (7)

Martins E et al. Bleached hair as standard template to insight the performance of commercial hair repair products. Cosmetics. 2024

Design
in vitro
Duration
single application
Who
bleached hair, 3 tresses per group

Tested: Olaplex No. 0 and K18 leave-in mask versus untreated bleached hair

Result: Olaplex No. 0 raised single-fibre tensile strength by 47.6% (significant); K18 raised it by 19.5% (not significant) and formed an external layer on the fibre.

Read the study ↗

Humphry R et al. Site-specific variations in surface structure and Young's modulus of hair surfaces after bleach. J Mech Behav Biomed Mater. 2022

Design
in vitro
Who
human hair, atomic force microscopy

Tested: repeated bleaching

Result: Surface roughness change accelerated with repeat bleaching (up to +65% after 10 more minutes) and stiffness fell by up to 40% after each treatment.

Read the study ↗

Bailey AD et al. Comparison of damage to human hair fibers caused by MEA- and ammonia-based hair colorants. J Cosmet Sci. 2014

Design
in vitro
Who
human hair, Procter & Gamble laboratory

Tested: monoethanolamine versus ammonia colourants

Result: Colourants with monoethanolamine caused up to 85% more damage than ammonia-based ones.

Read the study ↗

Zhang D et al. Reinforcing chemically treated human hair with citric acid. 2025

Design
in vitro
Who
chemically treated human hair

Tested: citric acid treatment

Result: Citric acid reduced calcium in chemically treated hair by 21-42% and improved mechanical properties.

Read the study ↗

Di Foggia M et al. Structural investigation on damaged hair keratin treated with alpha,beta-unsaturated Michael acceptors used as repairing agents. Int J Biol Macromol. 2021

Design
in vitro
Who
bleached hair, laboratory

Tested: commercial maleate-type and shikimic-acid repair products and model compounds

Result: No treatment increased disulfide content in the cortex, and the authors found no direct evidence of the claimed thiol-maleate cross-linking, although the cuticle looked more regular.

Read the study ↗

Taylor D et al. The biomechanics of splitting hairs. 2024

Design
other
Who
two hair donors

Result: Split ends form when hair cycles through tangle-like loops; in bleached or low-quality hair splits start inside the fibre.

Read the study ↗

Fan J et al. Performance and mechanism of hydrolyzed keratin for hair photoaging prevention. Molecules. 2025

Design
in vitro
Who
human hair, laboratory (Unilever co-author)

Tested: hydrolysed keratin treatment before UV

Result: Hydrolysed keratin deposited on the cuticle and partly penetrated; treated hair kept its tensile strength after UV while untreated hair lost 14.32%.

Read the study ↗