Styling techniques for men

Key takeaways

• Start with the cut. Product and technique can only do so much on a cut that fights your growth. Ask for a shape that works with your density, hairline, crown and curl (see talking to your barber or stylist and haircuts and face shape).
• Short, tidy or closely cropped is the safest choice when hair is visibly thinning. A shaved head was rated more dominant and masculine than thinning hair in controlled studies (Mannes 2012). Camouflage options are in thinning hair styling and camouflage.
• In professional practice, blow-drying is the biggest technique lever for volume. Dry to about 80% with your fingers or a vent brush, lift the roots up and away from the face, and set with cool air.
• Match the product to the finish. Matte means clay, paste or powder. Shine means water-based pomade, gel or oil-based pomade. Light and natural means mousse or cream (see styling products explained).
• Use the least product that works. The American Academy of Dermatology says to cut back on long-lasting-hold products and not to comb through set product, which can break hair.
• Keep heat modest: low to medium heat, air dry when you can, and irons rarely (see heat styling tools and hair drying).
• Wash product out. Heavy pomades and clays build up.
• Clipper guards: a #1 guard leaves about 1/8 inch (3 mm) and a #4 about 1/2 inch (13 mm). Fades usually use guards 0 to 3, and tapers use 5 to 6, according to a trade guide. Numbers vary by brand.

What the studies show

There is no controlled evidence on styling technique. Perception work shows that density, length and condition change how men are read.

• Full hair reads younger, thinning hair reads worst, and shaved heads read dominant but older (Mannes 2012). After hair transplant, men were judged 3.6 years younger (Bater 2016).
• Beards, brows and hair condition matter as much as the haircut. Full beards and heavy stubble raised long-term attractiveness in ratings by 8,520 women (Dixson 2016; see beards and eyebrows).
• No study shows that a particular quiff, fade or part is more attractive.

Damage evidence for heat and drying is on the heat tools and hair drying pages.

Techniques (professional practice)

Blow-dry for volume (straight to wavy, short to medium length)

This sequence comes from professional hair-education material for fine hair and also applies to men with medium-length hair.

1. Towel-dry gently and apply a heat protectant to damp hair.
2. Remove the nozzle and rough-dry with your fingers until about 80% dry, lifting the roots.
3. At about 80% dry, apply a root-lifting mousse or sea-salt spray, working back to front.
4. Reattach the nozzle. Dry in sections with a brush or fingers, over-directing the roots the way you want volume (for a quiff, forward and up first, then back).
5. Dry completely. Hair left damp can fall limp.
6. Finish with the cool setting to set the shape, then a small amount of paste, clay or wax.

Texture and messy looks (short to medium, straight to wavy)

• Work a pea-sized amount of paste, clay or fibre between your palms, then through the hair from back to front with your fingertips.
• Use matte products for a lived-in look. Add a salt spray first if your hair is fine and slippery.

Slick back or side part (classic)

• Comb product through damp hair, part with a comb, then blow-dry flat with a brush. Use a water-based pomade for a polished look, or an oil-based pomade for strong shine and hold.
• A slick back exposes the hairline, so it works best with a strong, even hairline and enough density.

Fades and tapers (barber cuts)

• A fade is usually more defined than a taper, and a skin fade goes to bare skin. Guards 0 to 3 are typical for fades and 5 to 6 for tapers.
• Neckline options are squared, rounded or tapered. A tapered neckline follows your natural hairline and can stretch the time between cuts.

Short textured crop or buzz (low maintenance)

• Ask for a guard number and a fade height. Clipper cuts need a trim every 2 to 4 weeks to stay tidy.
• Buzz cuts suit thinning hair and low-maintenance routines.

Curly and coily hair

See styling techniques for curly and wavy hair for wash-and-go, twists, defined curls and high-top styles.

What it means by hair profile

• Straight, fine (1A to 1B): root-lift products and blow-drying are crucial. Avoid heavy pomades. Choose shorter cuts with some length on top.
• Wavy (2A to 2C): let waves air dry or use a diffuser, then a light paste or cream. A longer top with tapered sides shows texture.
• Curly or coily (3A to 4C): do not brush dry hair. Use moisture and definition products, and a barber who cuts texture.
• Thick, coarse: can hold sharp fades and large quiffs, and tolerates stronger products such as clay and wax.
• Thinning or receding: textured and forward styles, matte product and short sides.
• Oily scalp: water-based, lightweight products, and wash more often.
• Dry or itchy scalp: avoid alcohol sprays on the scalp and condition the lengths.

Myths and facts

• Myth: wax and gel cause baldness. Fact: no evidence. Tight styles and constant traction can cause hair loss, and combing through stiff product can break hair.
• Myth: brush 100 strokes a day. Fact: the American Academy of Dermatology calls it a myth.
• Fact: a well-kept look is cut, then condition, then product, in that order. That is the consensus of professional sources, not a study result.

Practical recommendations

1. Pick the cut first, then the product. Bring photos of people with your hair type.
2. Dry hair properly: low to medium heat, lift the roots, finish cool.
3. Use product sparingly. Start with a pea-sized amount.
4. Match product to scalp: water-based if oily, creams if dry.
5. Wash product out and use a clarifying shampoo occasionally.
6. Keep a trim schedule. Short fades need trims every 2 to 4 weeks.
7. Go easier on heat tools.
8. See a dermatologist if your hair is thinning noticeably (see finasteride and minoxidil, which are covered as information, not advice).

Bottom line

Choose the cut for your hair and hairline, add the least product that gives the finish you want, and dry the hair properly. The technique steps here are professional practice rather than tested science, and the one robust perception finding is that visible density matters more than the style.