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Encyclopedia

Every molecule that touches your hair

From proven medicines to kitchen-cupboard oils, with the studies behind each one.

14 entries

A

  • botanical

    Aloe vera

    Aloe gel is a soothing, water-binding scalp and hair conditioner, with no solid human trial showing it grows hair.

C

  • surfactant

    Coco-glucoside

    A coconut-derived mild cleanser that is a staple of sulfate-free shampoos, with the same contact-allergy caveat as decyl glucoside.

D

  • surfactant

    Decyl glucoside

    A plant-derived mild cleanser marketed as ultra-gentle, but its best-documented concern is a rising rate of contact allergy.

E

  • oil or butter

    Emu oil

    Emu oil is a rendered bird-fat moisturizer with some mouse anti-inflammatory data, marketed for hair growth without any hair trial behind it.

J

  • oil or butter

    Jojoba oil

    A liquid wax often said to mimic scalp sebum; we found no hair-specific efficacy study.

L

  • oil or butter

    Lanolin

    A sheep-wool wax used as an emollient in pomades and conditioners; a weak but real contact allergen whose true allergy rate is probably under-detected.

  • surfactant

    Lauryl glucoside

    A 12-carbon alkyl glucoside that foams a little better than decyl glucoside and carries the same class contact-allergy profile.

P

  • oil or butter

    Petrolatum

    A refined mineral-oil-and-wax jelly that is the base of many greasy pomades; it seals and adds shine but does not enter the hair.

S

  • surfactant

    Sodium cocoamphoacetate

    A mild two-charge helper surfactant used in baby, sulfate-free and sensitive-scalp shampoos to soften harsher cleansers.

  • surfactant

    Sodium cocoyl glutamate

    An amino-acid-based cleanser that was among the best-tolerated surfactants in a 105-patient patch-test study, with no scalp or hair trials yet.

  • surfactant

    Sodium cocoyl glycinate

    A glycine-based mild cleanser with one industry body-wash study showing mildness and no scalp or hair studies.

  • surfactant

    Sodium cocoyl isethionate

    A mild anionic cleanser, the basis of many syndet bars, with good lab evidence of being gentle on the skin barrier and growing use in sulfate-free shampoos and shampoo bars.

  • surfactant

    Sodium lauroamphoacetate

    The lauric-chain version of the amphoacetate family, used as a mild helper surfactant in sulfate-free shampoos.

  • surfactant

    Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate

    A more soluble cousin of sodium cocoyl isethionate used as a mild cleanser in modern sulfate-free shampoos, with no independent studies of its own.