New: our own Hairmetry line. Every ingredient explained

Encyclopedia · chelator

Tetrasodium EDTA

The more alkaline, more soluble EDTA salt, with the same chelating job as disodium EDTA and wide use in clarifying and chelating shampoos.

Cosmetic ingredient Cost $ Safety: minor

hard waterbuildupdullness

What it is

Tetrasodium EDTA is the fully neutralised sodium salt of EDTA, more soluble and alkaline than disodium EDTA. It appears in many clarifying and chelating products and in colour and bleach formulations.

How it works

It binds calcium, magnesium, iron and copper ions. It is covered by the same safety assessment as the other EDTA salts (Lanigan 2002).

What the studies show

  • A safety assessment of EDTA and its salts found cosmetic skin exposure gives systemic levels far below toxic oral doses, with aerosol inhalation the concern, and the panel found them safe as used (Lanigan 2002).
  • Copper-doped white hair produced more hydroxyl radicals under wet UVA than undoped hair in a lab study (Millington 2020).
  • In over 300 women from 9 countries, calcium, magnesium and copper rose from root to tip, and those who rated their hair health as poor had higher metal levels (Godfrey 2013).
  • Calcium concentrated in the cuticle of coloured hair washed in tap water (Smart 2009).

The hair-benefit evidence is indirect, and we found no clinical trial of an EDTA shampoo on hair outcomes.

Side effects and safety

See disodium EDTA.

Bottom line

The same advice as for disodium EDTA. For coloured or porous hair, use chelating shampoos sparingly (every 2-4 weeks) and follow with conditioner.

Studies 4

Lanigan RS et al. Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. 2002

Design
review

Result: Cosmetic skin exposure gives systemic levels far below toxic oral doses; inhalation from aerosols was the concern; may increase penetration of other chemicals; the panel found EDTA and its salts safe as used.

Read the study ↗

Millington KR et al. UV damage to hair and the effect of antioxidants and metal chelators. J Cosmet Sci. 2020

Design
in vitro

Result: UV damage to hair was affected by antioxidants and metal chelators in the lab.

Read the study ↗

Godfrey S et al. Metals in female scalp hair globally and its impact on perceived hair health. 2013

Design
other
People
300
Who
over 300 women from 9 countries

Result: Calcium, magnesium and copper rose from root to tip, and women who rated their hair health as poor had higher metal levels; hardness ions were higher in people who coloured their hair. Unilever-affiliated authors; an association only.

Read the study ↗

Smart KE et al. Copper and calcium uptake in colored hair. 2009

Design
in vitro
Who
coloured hair tresses washed in tap water

Result: Calcium concentrated in the sulfur-rich layers of the cuticle of coloured hair; copper uptake can add to damage during later colouring.

Read the study ↗