Encyclopedia · protein or peptide
Hydrolyzed wheat protein
A common conditioner protein that raised dry strength of bleached and heat-damaged tresses in one lab test, with a small but real allergy risk.
What it is
Peptides from wheat gluten, sold with or without wheat starch. The 2016 tensile test used 1,500 Da protein plus starch. It is a cosmetic ingredient.
How it works
Film formation and stiffening from starch as it dries were the authors' explanations for the strength gain in dry hair.
What the studies show
- In an ex vivo test (Daniels et al., 2016), 2% wheat protein plus starch was best at improving dry tensile strength, especially on bleached and heat-treated tresses.
- The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel judged hydrolysed wheat protein safe in cosmetics when the average molecular weight is 3,500 Da or less. Burnett 2018
- In a Finnish screening of about 2,200 people, reactions to hair-conditioner protein hydrolysates came from a hydrolysed collagen ingredient. Niinimaki 1998
How it's used in studies
2% in an emulsion in the tensile study.
Side effects and safety
It can contain gluten peptides, and suitability for people with coeliac disease or wheat allergy in leave-ins was not studied. Wheat allergy has been linked to hydrolysed wheat protein in facial soap. Check the label if you are wheat-allergic.
Bottom line
A good fit for bleached or heat-damaged hair if you tolerate wheat, and skip it if you are wheat-allergic. We are only moderately sure of the benefit. Whether trace gluten on hair matters for coeliac disease is not addressed by any source we found. See proteins and hair.
Studies 2
Burnett C et al. Safety assessment of hydrolyzed wheat protein and hydrolyzed wheat gluten as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2018
Result: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel judged hydrolysed wheat protein safe in cosmetics when average molecular weight is 3,500 Da or less.
Read the study ↗Niinimaki A et al. Contact urticaria from protein hydrolysates in hair conditioners. Allergy. 1998
Result: Twelve patients, all women with atopic dermatitis, reacted to a hydrolysed collagen derivative in hair conditioners with contact urticaria.
Read the study ↗Related
- Hydrolyzed keratinKeratin fragments, usually from wool or feathers, that coat damaged hair and in lab tests partly entered it and raised wet strength; the evidence is small and industry-linked.
- Hydrolyzed silkSilk-derived peptides added for gloss and softness; the cosmetic safety panel judged most silk proteins safe, but there is no hair efficacy study.
- Hydrolyzed rice proteinA plant, gluten-free protein used in conditioners and volumizers; we found no hair study for it.
- Proteins and hairHydrolysed proteins can modestly strengthen damaged hair in the lab, but the popular protein-moisture balance rule has never been tested.