Encyclopedia · styling polymer
Acrylates copolymer
A family of acrylic polymers that thicken styling gels and dry to a hard, clear film for strong hold.
What it is
"Acrylates copolymer" and its relatives (acrylates crosspolymers, polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer) are acrylic-acid-based polymers supplied as lightly cross-linked, neutralised microgels or emulsions. They are the film-former in many modern strong-hold and "crunchy" curl gels. See styling products explained.
How it works
A cosmetic-chemistry study treated styled hair tresses as polymer composites. Using polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer, it showed that the choice of neutraliser changes the film, either softening it or hardening it through ionic cross-links. It also showed that both adhesion to the hair and the strength of the film itself decide stiffness and curl retention in high humidity (Wade Rafferty 2008). The work was done by industry authors on tresses, with no consumer data.
What the studies show
- Bench work on tresses shows hold depends on the neutraliser, adhesion and film strength (Wade Rafferty 2008).
- A safety review of 23 cross-linked alkyl acrylates found them safe as used, as long as they were not polymerised in benzene. Data were insufficient for those that were (Fiume 2017). We could not confirm that "acrylates copolymer" itself sits in that group.
- No independent hold comparison against PVP or VP/VA was found.
How it's used in studies
No usage percentages appeared in the sources we opened.
Side effects and safety
Irritation potential is low. The flagged concern is residual benzene from certain polymerisation routes (see also carbomer). The stiff cast, the "crunch", is normally scrunched out once the hair is dry. Heavy use can build up and flake.
Bottom line
This is the ingredient behind firm-hold, flake-prone gels. It is cosmetic-only. It suits curl definition and humidity resistance, and it is a poor choice if you want soft, touchable hair. We are moderately sure of the mechanism and not sure of consumer-level performance.
Studies 2
Wade Rafferty D et al. Polymer composite principles applied to hair styling gels. J Cosmet Sci. 2008
Tested: polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer films with different neutralisers
Result: The neutraliser changes the film (plasticising or hardening it), and both adhesion to hair and film cohesion determine stiffness and high-humidity curl retention.
Read the study ↗Fiume MM et al. Safety Assessment of Cross-Linked Alkyl Acrylates as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2017
Tested: 23 cross-linked alkyl acrylates
Result: Judged safe as used if not polymerised in benzene; data were insufficient for those that were.
Read the study ↗Related
- CarbomerA cross-linked polyacrylic acid that turns watery formulas into clear gels; in hair gels it is mainly the thickener, not the hold agent.
- PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone)A water-soluble film-forming polymer that gives temporary, washable hold in gels, mousses and sprays.
- VP/VA copolymerA vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate polymer used in sprays, mousses and gels for firmer, less humidity-sensitive hold than plain PVP.
- Styling products explainedStyling products come down to how much hold and how much shine you want; there are almost no head-to-head trials, so this page combines formulation knowledge with the few things that have been measured.