Encyclopedia
Every molecule that touches your hair
From proven medicines to kitchen-cupboard oils, with the studies behind each one.
18 entries
1
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other
18-MEA (18-methyleicosanoic acid)
The fatty acid on the outer surface of virgin hair that makes it water-repellent and smooth, lost with weathering and chemical treatment.
A
-
silicone
Amodimethicone
A dimethicone with positively charged amine groups, so it clings to damaged hair and resists rinsing better than plain dimethicone.
B
-
conditioning agent
Behentrimonium chloride
A long-chain, positively charged conditioning ingredient that clings to hair and detangles it, with good lab evidence for smoothing and none for repair.
-
conditioning agent
Behentrimonium methosulfate
The methosulfate salt of the same C22 conditioning ingredient as behentrimonium chloride, slightly weaker in head-to-head lab testing.
-
conditioning agent
Behenyl alcohol
The longest common conditioner fatty alcohol, a stiff wax that gives rich, thick conditioners; it has no hair-specific studies.
C
-
conditioning agent
Cetearyl alcohol
A waxy blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols that thickens conditioners and builds the gel that carries the conditioning agent; despite the name, it is not a drying alcohol.
-
conditioning agent
Cetrimonium chloride
A shorter-chain conditioning ingredient, a bit less effective than the behentrimonium salts but lighter, found in many shampoos, light conditioners and sprays.
-
conditioning agent
Cetyl alcohol
A 16-carbon fatty alcohol that thickens conditioners and pairs with conditioning surfactants to form the gel; it is not a drying alcohol.
D
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silicone
Dimethicone
The standard hair silicone, a water-insoluble oil that coats the fibre for slip, shine and friction control without repairing anything.
-
silicone
Dimethiconol
A dimethicone with hydroxyl end groups, usually supplied as a thick gum emulsion for longer-lasting slip in rinse-off conditioners.
F
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botanical
Flaxseed gel
A homemade or commercial gel of boiled flax seeds, popular as a natural curl definer, with no published study on it as a hair styler.
G
-
conditioning agent
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
A plant-derived cationic polymer used in conditioning shampoos and "natural" conditioners to ease wet combing; it can build up on hair.
M
-
oil or butter
Mineral oil
A cheap, non-penetrating hydrocarbon oil that coats hair for shine and slip but, unlike coconut oil, did not protect against protein loss in lab tests.
P
-
conditioning agent
Polyquaternium-10
A positively charged cellulose polymer that coats hair during shampooing, easing wet combing and helping deliver silicones, with some build-up risk.
-
styling polymer
Polyquaternium-11
A positively charged vinylpyrrolidone copolymer used in mousses, gels and sprays for clear, flexible hold with some conditioning.
-
conditioning agent
Polyquaternium-7
A synthetic positively charged copolymer used in shampoos and rinse-offs to improve wet combing and feel.
S
-
conditioning agent
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
A conditioning agent that only becomes positively charged in acidic formulas, used in "quat-free" conditioners; no independent hair data were found.
-
conditioning agent
Stearyl alcohol
An 18-carbon fatty alcohol, a slightly heavier cousin of cetyl alcohol, used to thicken and soften conditioners; safe at cosmetic levels and rarely allergenic.